ecogenenergy.info Business Scale Modeler Magazine Pdf

SCALE MODELER MAGAZINE PDF

Wednesday, April 10, 2019


FineScale Modeler magazine - Essential magazine for scale model builders, Modeler magazine, we are offering you the very first edition here in PDF form!. FineScale Modeler magazine - Essential magazine for scale model builders, model kit Download a PDF of Starship Enterprise Color & Camouflage Special. Download a free PDF to learn how Jim Wechsler built Academy/MRC's 1/35 scale UH-1C Huey gunship (kit No. ), as seen in the May.


Scale Modeler Magazine Pdf

Author:MANUAL ANSARI
Language:English, Spanish, Arabic
Country:Israel
Genre:Personal Growth
Pages:264
Published (Last):15.01.2016
ISBN:708-3-22863-632-4
ePub File Size:28.83 MB
PDF File Size:12.73 MB
Distribution:Free* [*Regsitration Required]
Downloads:22614
Uploaded by: TASHINA

Fill Fine Scale Modeler Magazine Pdf, download blank or editable online. Sign, fax and printable from PC, iPad, tablet or mobile with PDFfiller ✓ Instantly ✓ No. Fine Scale Modeler Vol Issue 08 - dokument [*.pdf] ecogenenergy.info Improve I am the new editor of your favor- ite scale modeling magazine and Aaron. FineScale Modeler - dokument [*.pdf] ecogenenergy.info September an exceptional model BILL PLUNK 30 Springtime in Berlin Dragon's 1/35 scale . TRADE ORDERS, AND INQUIRIES Selling FineScale Modeler magazine or.

Or was it an F Delta Dagger? As I grew older I turned my attention to cars and building big- ger aircraft, like Ps and my favorite, the P Lightning. I was an OK modeler, but a kid, and no one gave me a cool magazine to read and learn all the expert tips and techniques to make my mod- els great.

Noooo, I had to wait until I was middle-aged to get onboard the Kalmbach Publishing train of hobby publications. But the ability to build a beauti- ful, realistic military model, diorama, or a crazy-wild science- fiction creation is something spe- cial.

All of us here love doing it and seeing it done well. President Charles R. Keefe Senior V. All rights reserved. Title is registered as trademark. This publication may not be reproduced in part or in whole without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations used in reviews.

Periodicals postage paid at Waukesha, Wisconsin, and additional offices. All other international subscriptions: Payable in U. Expedited Delivery Service: Letters, new releases, and new-product information are accepted as gratis contributions to FineScale Modeler. Feature articles and scale drawings are paid for on acceptance.

THE MAGAZINE

All other submissions are paid for upon publication, at which time FineScale Modeler obtains all reproduction rights unless otherwise agreed.

Instructions for submitting features, photographs, and drawings for publication are available from the editorial associate or online at www. Unsolicited material will be returned only if postage and envelope are provided. FineScale Modeler is not responsible for the safe return of unsolicited material. Printed in U. Over 3, items! Good luck with your models and be sure to send us photos of your finished projects for Reader Gallery.

Rarely do I catch one, but this was too funny not to point out. Hi Colin, nice catch! Every once in a while, things like that make it through. Every day we are bombarded by computer-generated images in movies,TV shows, commercials, and even other magazines.

FSM is one of the few places where we can see something built by hand, not by a keyboard. A well-built model will look great without any enhancements; and splashing Photoshop effects over it is no substitute for craftsmanship. It also makes one wonder how much of a model is real, and how much was copied and pasted from another source or even from another photo of the object that the model is sup- posed to depict. Please help avoid such doubts by not using enhanced photos in the future.

Imaginative model building is more inspiring for all of us when the cre- ativity is displayed by the model itself. There, Mark shows how he pulled off the wonderful — and mostly practical — photo and lighting effects. I have to say I could not agree more with his comments about over-weathering. That nicely weathered airplane with stains, smoke, grime, dirt, dust, etc.

Airplanes in war zones, especially World War II, were often very dirty. Comments, suggestions, corrections, and additional views on FSM articles are welcome. E-mail your thoughts to editor FineScale. Please limit your comments to no more than words and include your name and location. Livermore, CA www. I used L Goodyear tires because they filled the wheel well completely. In my opinion, L60 tire labels don't look right on the front of a car.

I carefully cut away the horizontal part of the L and then hand-painted two horizontal lines to make an F—Fs are correct for this car. Since the tires were 15 inchers, I had to go with the Rallye wheel.

I detailed the wheels with matte aluminum on the wheel surface itself, leaving a chrome trim ring. I painted the center caps gunmetal. For valve stems, I used a short piece of MSC black ignition wire.

This wheel and tire combination really sets off the car. Remember to detail the center cap. Next, I put together the subassemblies. I polished the glass to near-new appearance and epoxied the glass into the body. I painted the inside of the body flat black and glued in the completed interior. I laid the chassis with the engine into the body, but initially it looked saggy. I used Plastruct tubing as spacers between the chassis and the body in the trunk area.

The body and chassis had four flat spots in this area, so the spacers fit perfectly. The chrome finally arrived, and it looked great.

I detailed the front grille with flat black in the grille area and painted matte a l u m i n u m on the surrounding trim. The taillights were badly broken, heavily glued, and unusable. I trimmed clear sheet plastic to the approximate shape of the taillight lens, backed it with Bare Metal foil, and painted with Tamiya clear red.

Then I glued the lights to the chrome taillight panel and glued 26 the completed panel to the body. These items are available from Scale Vanities. I also used an S S Specialties now named Detail Resources radio antenna, but be aware that this item is no longer available from them. Oh well, stung again! A reissue would definitely be the way to go with this project, but I was impatient.

Restoring a built kit is the nextbest choice, depending on the kit's condition and completeness. Prices of restorables are beginning to climb, and price should be a major deciding factor when comparing a resto with a resin. Sometimes it's a tough choice. Don't buy a restorable kit if irreplaceable parts are missing or if there is major body damage. Pass on it, or the project will become a bottomless money pit. You can remove a bad roof and turn the car into a convertible, but this takes some advanced skills—without these skills, the project could become very expensive and frustrating.

In this instance, a resin body may be the way to go. You need some special skills to wrork with resins, but the car will not need to be hacked apart to make an acceptable model. This included parts kits, a resin body that I'll never use, and the built Coronet.

One final piece of advice: Be honest with yourself and your skill level. Build for yourself, and try to improve with each new model. Don't be afraid to try new techniques or products, but don't try them all on one project—if you do, you'll probably give up modeling for good. Heed my advice, and you won't get stung on your next project! The engine was a hp, specially modified cubic inch with three two-barrel carbs on an aluminum Edelbrock manifold.

In NHRA had factored the engine at hp. The special engine modifications included stiffer Hemi valve springs, a low taper camshaft with special lifters, chromed valve stems, Moly filled top piston rings, a dual point distributor, Hemi-type connecting rods, and a roller timing chain with a three-bolt sprocket.

These modifications allowed the shift points to be around the mark. A four-speed transmission with Hurst shifter or Torqueflite automatic was standard. Other standard features included heavyduty inch drum brakes, Hemitype rear springs, a heavy-duty cooling system, a 4. The car had a distinctive flat black fiberglass hood with a large scoop. On either side of the scoop was a decal boasting engine displacement. The hood was held down with four locking pins and needed two people to be handled—very impressive at the gas station when the attendant asked, "Can I check your oil?

If you picked up any automotive magazine of that era, you would find that the was a very powerful power plant. It rivaled the Hemi in power, yet was much easier to maintain. In I didn't think much of my friend's car until I rode in it.

Today I can dream of those days and recall them in plastic. To build a Roadrunner 6-bbl replica you will need the following: Johan's Roadrunner kit no. The basic conversion can be made from these three kits. Since I completed my conversion, Scale Speed Shop released a complete conversion kit in resin. Unfortunately, availability of this fine conversion kit may be limited.

For my conversion, I chose to add extra detail and used parts from various parts kits as I will describe. From the Monogram kit, I used the hood scoop, driver's door mirror, and air cleaner with the hood seal. You will also need a bench seat, which can be found in Revell's Chevy Panel Delivery kit no. I removed the twin scoops from the Johan kit hood. First I used a Dremel tool to remove the bulk of the material, then I sanded the entire area as flat as I could.

Some reissued versions of the Roadrunner may have a hood with the area under the scoops recessed. This won't work, because if you remove the scoops, you could go right through the hood.

The most current reissues have a suitable hood. I used spot putty to help smooth out the area even further. I modified the hood scoop from the Monogram kit by removing the mounting lip on the bottom and sanding the top ridge flat. Then I glued the scoop to the Roadrunner hood and blended with some spot putty.

I removed the Roadrunner name plate from the front edge of the hood. The real hood has a raised portion just in front of the scoop opening, but it was raised just 27 slightly so I omitted it from my model.

The hood from Scale Speed Shop accurately depicts the real hood. If you desire a functional hood scoop, this is the time to open the underside of the hood. After I completed all of the putty and sanding work, I sprayed the hood with primer and overcoated it with flat black.

Then I overcoated the hood with Testor's Dullcote to seal the decals, as they tended not to stick to the flat black hood surface. I added hood pins from an old Chevette or Camaro parts kit to MPC vintage -they seemed to be the best suited for the project at that time.

Another option is to use photoetched hood pins from Detail Master. Remember that four hood pins are needed, one at each corner of the hood. I put the hood aside until later.

The chassis was a dull, onepiece unit common to most Johan kits of that vintage. I placed the axle locators in the Johan chassis and painted it flat black, painting the frame rails gloss black.

Then I painted the exhaust pieces with Monogram's Metalcote polished steel and buffed them when dry. Other molded detail was lacking and the model would benefit from chassis detailing, but I chose not to detail it any further. I took the engine from the MPC Roadrunner kit no. I dechromed the chrome valve covers, oil pan, and fan by letting them soak in Mr. Clean for a few hours.

I painted the assembled engine block with Testor's Chevy engine orange can you hear the Mopar purists? At this time I also removed the power steering pump and belt. I used the air cleaner from the Monogram kit — which is mixing scales, but if you have ever seen a real 6-bbl air cleaner, it's massive.

I achieved the right look here by mixing scales. For added detail, I placed drain hoses at the front of the lower air cleaner pan. Some literature shows these hoses at opposite corners, yet some shows them as I placed them. I wired the engine and further detailed it with heater and radiator hoses, then glued the entire assembly in place. I could not use the front axle unless I drilled through the engine block, so I used an alternate method to mount the tires.

These tires are my personal favorite because of the stock, wide-tread look. I "redlined" them as described in Chapter 9. These particular tires were easy to detail since I only had to adjust the bow compass onto the raised sidewall outline—I couldn't go wrong! Of course, I sanded the tire tread. The stock kit wheels were a bit too deep, but could be used. I used wheels from a friend's parts box, which originally came from an old Charger kit.

The wheels had that Chrysler look but lacked front The engine shows the results of using various scales to achieve the desired effect. Wheels found in Johan's Dodge kit no. They would need to be dechromed and are actually slightly smaller in diameter, which may require that they be epoxied to the tire. Resin copies of the standard Chrysler steel wheels can be obtained from The Good Stuff.

My wheels were painted black and the lug nuts detailed with chrome silver. I detailed the front wheel bearing dust caps with a bit of brass paint.

I oversprayed the completed wheels with Testor's semigloss clear, epoxied them to the tires and wheel backs, and set them aside for final assembly. The interior needed a taxicab look and since I wasn't about to recreate the stock seat pattern, I chose to do a generic replica with a spartan look. I used the bench seat from the Chevy, removing the bottom trim piece of the seat with a X-acto blade.

Subscribe To Our Magazines

This gave the seat more of an angle when I placed it flat. I removed the upholstery pattern and added a seat back with sheet plastic. I also removed the seat pattern on the kit's back seat, using a Dremel tool. After I sanded them smooth, I masked off the tops of both seats along with the front of the seat bottoms. I made the taxicab bench seat I wanted using a bench seat from a Chevy panel truck and a paint technique described in the text.

The head rests were modified Camaro units mounted with straight pins—and by the way, they are functional. Then, using black wrinkle paint, I sprayed the exposed areas and put the parts under a lamp to let the paint wrinkle.

Be careful not to set the bulb of the lamp too close to the plastic, or it will melt. Don't worry if the paint goes on too thick—the thicker the better, because you will get more texture. Then I sprayed the entire seat with flat black. You can make working headrests by filing down headrests from MPC's Camaro about a third and cutting straight pins to use as mounting posts.

These will mount to the top of the front seats. If the pins are long enough, the headrests will actually adjust to height. I oversprayed the interior shell, seats, and detailed dash with Testor's semigloss and assembled them when they were dry.

I used a shifter from Monogram's Chevelle since it resembled a Hurst unit, removing the shifter ball which was not perfectly round and replacing it with a ball from a straight pin. I paint detailed the horn rim with chrome silver, painted the center of the wheel I modified the rear seat in the same way.

The stock kit interior compared to the taxi interior horn button white, and added a Roadrunner head decal to the recessed horn button. This decal came from the MPC Roadrunner kit no. When first attempting to build the coupe I tried to fashion the window pillars from Evergreen plastic, but soon found them included in the kit—it pays to read the instruction sheet.

I filled in the sink marks on the body, sanded the area smooth, and painted the entire body flat white. If you use an antenna, drill the hole at this time on the top of the passenger-side fender. I detailed the moldings with Bare Metal foil and picked up other details with silver paint.

I painted the window pillars to match the body color and painted the inside surfaces silver. I used Bare Metal foil to detail all of the Roadrunner script. I flowed Tamiya smoke onto the lettering and immediately buffed the high spots with a paper towel to give the lettering depth and definition.

I detailed the bird emblem by painting the feathers purple, the beak yellow, and the legs red. When it was dry, I overcoated the entire body with Testor's Glosscote.

Then I epoxied in the glass, completed interior, and chassis. I detailed the grille with thinned flat black paint, which flowed into all the grille recesses and around the headlights. I painted the headlight bezels with flat aluminum to simulate argent. The lenses were a poor fit and needed several trial fits and some work before they fit well. Once I achieved the proper fit, I glued in the lenses with white glue. I glued the rear lights into the bezels, then placed them into the recesses in the rear panel.

Remember to paint the area around the red lens with flat aluminum. This was common to the cheaper models, as flat black was used on the GTX models. The front bumper mounts were very fragile and should be handled carefully.

In my construction I was not so careful, and 1 lost both mounts. I mounted the front bumper by gluing it to the inner lip on the body. This actually brought the bumper up to an acceptable height. The rear bumper mounting holes were too low, so I elongated them so that the bumper could be moved upward to a The kit hood needed to have the Hemi scoops removed.

Be sure to use a later reissued kit, because earlier kits do not have enough plastic beneath the scoops and will sand through. If you do not do this, you will have an obvious gap between the bumper and the body—and nothing looks worse than a sagging bumper. I detailed the front turn signal indicators with Tamiya clear yellow and the rear indicators with Tamiya clear red. I painted the front bumper vent slats flat black.

I glued the tires and wheels into the stock mounting holes, using a metal axle for the rear and a cut-down axle for the front. The engine compartment had two plastic mounts molded to the underside to accommodate the hood lying in place, which needed no further modification.

Other details included a battery with cables, washer bottle, and air cleaner decals. There was no documentation of any engine displacement decals for the air cleaner, only instructional decals. I made these decals by cutting a red "NO STEP" airplane decal in two and placing it in the appropriate places on top of the air cleaner. The decal appears to have writing on it, but it is so tiny that it cannot be read.

The final assembly step was to epoxy an antenna into the predrilled 30 Comparing before right and after left — with plenty of spot putty, sanding, decals, and hood pins you can change the appearance completely. The kit chassis lacks detail, but with some Monogram Metalcote paint and patience it can look better. From this a template was made and fitted. Once the fit was obtained, T traced the outline onto the scale rubber and cut it.

I added texture to the rubber by clamping the piece of rubber in a vise, allowing the pattern of the vise jaws to imprint the rubber. I epoxied an authentic, cheap rearview mirror to the driver's door. This mirror came from the Monogram Superbee kit no. I tied the stock MPC Roadrunner exhaust manifolds into Red line tire techniques add a special touch to your tire choice.

Then I painted the pipes with Monogram Metalcote polished steel and buffed them. I made exhaust tips by cutting down GTX resonators and mating them to Chevelle exhaust tips. The Johan kit alone is rather mundane in stock form, but with some imagination it can be enhanced and will really add something to your display shelf. I've owned the model for quite some time now—maybe 1 should consider Cragars, like Pete did! But the Hemi was not the only version made that year.

The six-pack version ran a close second in performance. The Hemi would certainly plant your molars in the back of your mouth, but it was a difficult engine to maintain and tune. The Hemi cars were owned by what appeared to be an elite group, as there just were not enough of these cars to go around—only Hemicudas were produced in The six-pack was no slouch when it came to performance; it even gave the Hemi cars a run for their money.

A total of six-pack 'Cudas were built. Of these, were four-speed cars and were automatics. In a car dealer in our city sold "cream puffs" —preowned, high-performance cars. One morning 1 took a ride out to this dealership to see what he had in my price range. I spotted a beautiful red 'Cuda with a white interior. The twin hood scoops boasted of a six-pack. The salesman gave me the keys and said, "Give her a run on the stretch in the back!

The pistol-grip shifter felt great, and the shifter slid into gear easily. After a sufficient warm-up period, I drove the car slowly to the stretch and thought that it just ran just okay—nothing to get W excited about. I then floored the gas pedal and felt my internal organs move toward the seat back as the other two carbs joined in.

A quick jerk of the shifter, into second gear, threw me deeper into the seat—I was getting one wild test drive. I only had enough road left for one more gear, so I went for it. As the clutch disc made contact with the flywheel, the tires let out a healthy chirp. Sitting here now writing this, I'm getting goosebumps. When I returned the car to the spot where I found it, the salesman was standing there with the papers 1 needed to sign for ownership.

I never bought that car, primarily because I took my dad for a ride in it and he smiled and said, "The insurance man isn't going to like this at all! The 'Cuda's basic body style was a carryover from with a few cosmetic changes. The front end had four headlights instead of two, and the front fenders had simulated louvers above the wheel wells. There was also a slight change in the rear taillight.

The front grille area was painted a bright silver, but if you ordered an elastomeric front bumper the grille area came painted body color. If you go to car shows you may spot a car with an elastomeric bumper and the grille area still painted bright silver.

This may be an owner addon, since I could not find any documentation of such a combination. Engine choices for included a standard hp four-barrel, an optional hp four-barrel, an optional hp six-barrel, and the infamous hp eight-barrel Hemi. The four-barrel was dropped in Of the sixbarrel production, were hardtops and 17 were convertibles. I felt it would be appropriate to capture the memory of that morning in with a model.

I really had not planned to write about this conversion, but it came out well and I tried a few new things, so I felt it should be shared. There are still plenty of these kits around, even though Monogram dropped it from the catalog.

Free PDF download: Helpful hints for a Huey

Monogram still has the Hemicuda available, and combined with a resin twin scoop hood from Muscle in Miniature, the trappings for this project are still available. You will also need to purchase Monogram's GTX kit no. If you wish to build an automatic version, you will also need Monogram's Satellite kit no. If you build a four-speed version, as I did, all you need to do is build the GTX engine as it comes from the box.

The stock exhaust manifolds work without any chassis modification. You need to notch out the trans mount on the chassis so that the trans mount on the transmission will drop lower into the chassis. You may choose instead to remove some material from the trans mount.

Either method will lower the transmission sufficiently. I also found it necessary to sand down the carbs a bit so that the air cleaner would fit under the hood. I painted the engine block with Testor's Chrysler engine red enamel and the transmission with Monogram's Metalcote polished steel. The Monogram paint is great to work with—it dries flat, and after about 30 minutes you buff the painted part with a cloth.

After buffing it, you would swear that the part is really metal. Note that this paint is no longer available; a reasonable substitute is Testor's Metallizer paint.

I left the air cleaner and the valve covers chromed. I painted the air cleaner element flat white and the bottom pan semigloss black—I always liked the Direct Connection aftermarket parts. I wired the block with ignition wires and added a Fred Cady engine displacement decal to the top of the detailed air cleaner.

Then I put the completed engine aside for a while. If you choose to build the automatic car, use the engine block and transmission from the Satellite kit and add the six-pack intake. A white interior can really make a dark body color stand out. The 'Cuda kit interior is basic, and the lack of a console makes the pistol-grip shifter stand out. A new and different experience: painting Monogram's Metalcote polished steel on a molded exhaust system Metalcoat dries flat but, when buffed, really makes the part stand out.

The transmission can also benefit from an application. Simple paint and patience can bring a chassis alive. I painted the chassis flat black and accented the frame rails with gloss black, then detailed the cables and fuel lines with silver paint. I raised the rear using the 'Cuda kit's suspension risers so that I could fit a larger rear tire.

In the past I have received several comments about using Otaki tires on my models, but not everyone has access to them. I chose the Magnum mag from the GTX kit and carefully detailed both the tires and the wheels.

The 'Cuda kit has one drawback: The chassis has a molded-on exhaust, which I personally do not care for. But here the Monogram Metalcote paint worked like a charm. I carefully painted the exhaust pipes and mufflers with the Metalcote polished steel and, when dry, buffed it to a gloss.

I can not describe in words the improvement it made to the chassis—I hope the photos give you a better idea of what to expect.

The interior as it comes from the box is rather plain. There is no console a resin console is available from Muscle in Miniature, if you desire one , but its absence really makes the pistolgrip shifter stand out. I painted the interior seats and door panels white with contrasting black carpeting, steering wheel center, and dash. I added woodgrain to the area surrounding the instruments and around the pistol-grip shifter. T detailed the instrument faces with silver paint, using a dry-brushing technique: Dip the tip of a very fine brush in the paint and paint the excess onto a 3 x 5 card, then run the nearly dry brush over the numerals.

This way you won't put a big paint blob on the gauge face. Once the paint dried, I placed a drop of Micro Kristal-Kleer, which is available in hobby shops, into each gauge. It looks like glorified white glue, but dries clear and gives the gauges the appearance of being under glass. I painted the rubber boot flat black to simulate black rubber. If you desire an automatic version, you can simply add the resin console mentioned earlier and remove the clutch pedal from the 'Cuda interior.

This is a military flat, but it makes a great primer if you use a bright body color. Then I airbrushed the body using Chrysler engine red enamel —I liked it so much on the engine that I decided it would look great on the body. I masked the rear light panel, sprayed it flat black, and detailed it with Bare Metal foil.Tester's Glosskote. Putty in your hands. I applied additional coats as needed and wet-sanded it smooth. In the past I have received several comments about using Otaki tires on my models, but not everyone has access to them.

I painted the assembled engine block with Testor's Chevy engine orange can you hear the Mopar purists? Want to leave a comment?

RC Modeler Magazines

Then I epoxied in the glass, completed interior, and chassis. I used a chromed dual-snorkel air cleaner from the scrap box in place of the kit air cleaner.

Damaged Summer

DENISHA from Hampton
I do relish studying docunments youthfully. Also read my other articles. I am highly influenced by boomerangs.